“Do you think my men are going to work for $12 an hour if the guy next door is paying $20?” Figone asked, appearing to inflate the cost. “I’m going to have to match that pay.”
My fiancée and I traveled home to Arizona in May for a niece’s high school graduation, and on our route, we stopped by Tocabe, An American Indian Eatery (one of two locations) in Denver, Colorado. An indigenous owned and operated restaurant amongst many other restaurants that represent cuisines from across the globe, this space stands out because it represents a real American food culture. Tocabe is run by Ben Jacobs (Osage Nation) and his friend Matt Chandra. They source from tribal and organic sustainable vendors in likes of Red Lake Nation Foods, Ramona’s Farms, Bow & Arrow, and Rock River Ranches.
Over the past several years, the Youngs have tinkered, through hand-pollination, with new varieties which they hope will yield fruit that are predictably round, orange and sturdy. And big.
“This guy Vincent from Chablis in Burgundy, who supplies some of our vegetables, comes to Paris only on Wednesdays,” explains Omar. “I do my shopping from his truck outside the restaurant and then he moves on. Sometimes I’ll ask, ‘Do you have the same turnips you had last week? Because they were beautiful.’ And he’ll be like, ‘Sorry, Giovanni [Passerini, chef at the eponymous Italian restaurant on nearby rue Traversiere] took everything.’ It happens a lot.”
The Spanish octopus — so unassumingly named on the menu — anchors a plate of striking contrasts. The snow-white plate first is dramatically brushed with a jet-black squid ink vinaigrette followed by a tangle of two octopus tentacles, fried fingerling potatoes, dehydrated kalamata olives, pimentón oil (smoked paprika-infused oil) and fresh watercress. “Octopus is one of my favorite things,” VanHeulen said. “It really speaks to the kinds of creative showstopping dishes that I love to make.”
Lightly smashed and crisped potatoes soak up a jalaleno-anchovy dressing. Get the recipe for Pommes Tapées with Jalapeño Vinaigrette »
If I tested the recipes with more than one brand of a particular ingredient, then I noted each one. I’ve also included Notes about several of the Brands after this Go Dairy Free ingredients list. There is some important information in that section, particularly for those dealing with severe milk allergies.
This story begins on a warm March Day after cross county skiing. We were coming out of a snowy winter, but pumpkin season was fast approaching. This particular patch rested for three years, and we had high hopes. Time to shovel off an area to install soil heating cables and a hoop house.
Why can’t we eat sunflower seeds whole? Great question. I know about this one firsthand since I became hooked on sunflower seeds (and their hulls, as the shells are technically called), back in the summer after fourth grade. My summer camp took a field trip to a minor league baseball game, and as a special treat, gave out sunflower seeds to all of us to eat at the game. I thought chewing and spitting out the sunflower seed was so gross that I decided to eat the sunflower seed whole — kernel, hull, everything. Besides, the outside is the part that’s salted and tastes the best to a kid like me anyway. Great idea, right?
“No-melt Peanut Butter Suet” ingredients: One cup crunchy peanut butter, two cups “quick cook” oats, two cups cornmeal, one cup lard (no substitutes here), one cup white flour, and one-third cup sugar. Melt lard and peanut butter over low heat, then stir in remaining ingredients. Pour into square freezer containers about an inch-and-a-half thick. Chill in the freezer for about 20 minutes, then cut to size, separate blocks with wax paper, and store in freezer.
The burger patties don’t taste like meat, but they’re satisfying in a way that meat-lovers will still find themselves craving.
Justin Tinsley is a culture and sports writer for The Undefeated. He firmly believes “Cash Money Records takin’ ova for da ’99 and da 2000” is the single-most impactful statement of his generation.
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